Expert's Opinion

Tried-and-True Ingredients Still Reign in the Cosmetic World

MYNE Beauty Founder Liz Martin on the benefits of retinol, ceramides and peptides.

By Liz Martin, MYNE Beauty

The beauty industry is always buzzing with the latest and greatest ingredients. Every year, new compounds emerge, claiming to deliver unprecedented results. Yet, after more than 30 years in the industry, I’ve found that it’s often the tried-and-true ingredients—those that have been with us all along—that quietly keep our formulas performing at their best.

Take retinol, for example. This powerhouse derivative of vitamin A has been a staple in skincare for decades—and for good reasons. Its ability to stimulate cell turnover, reduce fine lines and improve skin texture is backed by years of scientific research. New contenders like bakuchiol have recently stepped onto the scene. They offer similar benefits without promoting sun sensitivity, making them suitable for daytime use. 

Retinol and Bakuchiol

A study in the British Journal of Dermatology found that both retinol and bakuchiol significantly reduced wrinkle surface area and hyperpigmentation. But bakuchiol users experienced less facial skin scaling and stinging.1 Bakuchiol is less likely to cause adverse effects like itching, redness and irritation compared to retinol. However, retinol remains a widely used and effective ingredient in promoting healthy, radiant skin.2 I’m pleased to see an alternative that holds its own, but it hasn’t knocked retinol off its pedestal as the gold standard for promoting healthy, radiant skin.  

Ceramides have stood the test of time, too. These lipids help restore and maintain the skin’s natural barrier, locking in moisture while keeping environmental aggressors out.3 Whether you’re dealing with dryness, sensitivity or simply want to support a healthy complexion, ceramides remain a critical component in effective skincare. New plant-derived oils, butters and waxes are gaining attention for their lipid-loving properties, but ceramides continue to be the proven, reliable choice for delivering soft, smooth skin.

The Power of Peptides

Let’s not forget peptides. These amino acid chains play a crucial role in signaling the skin to produce more collagen and elastin. The result? Firmer, plumper skin with improved elasticity. While advancements in peptide technology continue to emerge, the core benefits of these small but mighty molecules remain steadfast and scientifically validated.

Don’t get me wrong—I’m always eager to try new ingredients and formulations. The search for the holy grail of skincare is ongoing, and I’m as curious as ever. While the industry continues to innovate (and I continue to test every promising new formula that crosses my desk), I find myself returning to the tried-and-true. Is it my age? Being in the industry for so long? While innovations in skincare continue to surface, ingredients like retinol, ceramides and peptides remain foundational components in effective skincare regimens.

References:

  1. PUBMED: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29947134/?
  2.  Cleveland Clinic: https://health.clevelandclinic.org/bakuchiol
  3. Cleveland Clinic: https://health.clevelandclinic.org/ceramides

About the Author

Liz Martin is the founder of MYNE Beauty, a beauty and lifestyle brand for women in their prime. It features skincare (and soon makeup) while incorporating youthful THINKING into every facet. This attitude all starts with the name: My Youth Never Ends. 

Before starting her brand, Liz ran Clarity & Co., LLC, an ideation consulting resource which specializes in beauty product innovation and development & story conception and new technology application.  The company was established in 2011. She worked with brands, innovation R&D centers, packaging teams and contract manufacturers to build and bring new and exciting concepts and products to market. She holds multiple patents and several of her breakthrough products were awarded industry accolades and awards. She is experienced in developing award-winning personal care and cosmetic products from head to toe in a wide variety of distribution channels. 

Liz has 30+ years of CPG marketing and product development experience. She was with the Estée Lauder companies for 18 years holding management positions in marketing and product development.  Many years were also spent at Gurwitch, LLC (Laura Mercier, ReVive Skincare) creating product innovation specializing in high-performance skincare and makeup.  Her company’s client roster included both small, dynamic, entrepreneurial companies as well as established Fortune 500 companies.   

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